I was recently in Goa for a fundraising walk along one of the state’s many southern beaches. As the early morning Sun started to warm up the muggy air, I happened to come across a group of men dragging a traditional fishing dogger out from the ocean. Larger than a canoe, the wooden raft was barely big enough to fit four men, but once out of the water, it took a group of nearly ten to drag and push it onto the sandbar. Each of the men looked exhausted – which was no surprise given that they had probably spent the better part of the night out at sea – but what drew me to them was the look of dejection in their eyes. A quick chat revealed that the catch had been exceptionally bad. The men had pulled out more plastic than fish, and the few fish that they did manage to catch were significantly undersized. One of the veterans in the group, a man by the name of Pascal, picked up a small, palm-sized fish and pointed at its underbelly. “This is a shevtto, a local species. Notice the shape of th…